Encountering Copenhagen

Motivated by airline status, I put together a quick trip to Copenhagen from New York. Here is my itinerary, recommendations and approach to putting it all together.

Day One - Arrival

I arrived midday on a Saturday after connecting through Brussels. Copenhagen airport is easily accessible by public transport - either a train or metro. Either takes about 20 minutes to get into town. I took the metro, which cost about $4. Ticket booths and helpful attendants are at the main exit of the airport. I was staying close to the main train station, so I bought a ticket to the city center.

Navigating via Google maps is fairly easy and for the most part you don’t have to access your cellular network. Even offline, the route to your destination stays live as long as you push start. I booked a good hotel using the Guide Michelin app, which I find is underappreciated. I have found it useful for hotels and restaurants in Europe especially.

After dropping my bags at the Absalon Hotel, my first foray was to the Tivoli Gardens. Tivoli is the world’s second oldest amusement park. The cozy park, which is directly across from the main train station features concert halls, restaurants and shops. It is said the Walt Disney was inspired by the park, which was full of Christmas magic.

I then stopped back at the hotel for a quick siesta before heading to dinner. I had done a bit of research before heading over. Finding places that work for one person can be tricky at dinner time, but more and more places feature bar seating that works well if you are solo.

Kodbyens Fiskebar is an 8-minute walk from the hotel, tucked into the meatpacking warehouse district of the city. The restaurant has a vibrant air. The seafood menu (Fiskebar means fish bar). I went for a mostly raw bar order, but the couple across the way ordered the roasted monkfish head. The beast looked like an alligator, but delicious. The place is great for one or a group. I was tempted to go back another night, but time was limited.

Day Two - Exploring the Highlights


The next morning (sunrise at 8:40 am), I headed by metro to see Han Christian Anderson’s Little Mermaid as rendered by Edvard Eriksen. The bronze statue is off the beaten path, sitting close to shore off a star shaped park. From there I walked to the Designmuseum Denmark. The museum focuses on the renowned Danish style for homewares and practical living. There is a fantastic arc of chairs, clever innovations and inventions from the last century and the art of collecting and display.

From there it was time for lunch. The place I had planned wasn’t open on a Sunday, so I wandered to the Nyhavn canal. Nyhavn is featured in every Copenhagen postcard. Fortunately, in my search for the famous Smorrebrod restaurant, one restaurant that draws locals and tourists was on my map, Hyttefadet. Lunch was cozy, simple and delicious.

After lunch, I meandered home to see the sites. For the whole trip, the weather was rather gloomy with a constant, spitting rain. So after many steps, I went back to the hotel to warm up, get a coffee and rest a bit. Dinner was a casual pizza restaurant run by some delightful Romans, Pizzeria MaMeMi.

Day Three - A Swim and Quick Trip to Malmo

Again up early thought it seemed late, I headed out to a swimming pool about 20 minutes away by metro. I like to lap swim whenever I travel. Part of the adventure if finding the pool in a different neighborhood. And swimming is very regenerative and meditative for me. Although swimming in a foreign country can be more survival than exercise. I do a bit of research before each trip and then give it a go. Most of the time I find a lovely facility, at a very reasonable price (3-6 euros) with like-minded folks. In Copenhagen, I went to Osterbro Svommenhal, which is a neighborhood adjacent to a Faellendparken. After the swim, I was fortunate to be close by what has been called the best bakery in Copenhagen, Juno. I grabbed a cardommon bun (a new obsession) and some butter cookies.

In the afternoon, I went to Malmo Sweden, which is a 35 minute train ride from Copenhagen station via the airport Accessible now via the Oresundbron bridge, the trip is a delightful way get an intro to Sweden without a lot of baggage. The rain was more relentless that day, so in my mind I went to lunch in Sweden with a short walk around the main city. The New York Times had featured Malmo in it’s 36 Hours series, so I had good options for lunch. A counter seat at Ruths, with a winter salad and a glass of wine made for more of local moment than that of a tourist. After a couple of hours, I was ready to return to Copenhagen.

For the evening, I booked a bar seat at a Michelin star classic, Aamanns 1921. Despite the acclaim, the description and my experience was one of casual elegance. One could indulge in a 10-course tasting menu, or have a few ala carte options that showcase the menu without breaking the budget.

A Final Jaunt

I didn’t get to see all the highlights. I tried to get a glimpse of the royal palace after dinner, but it was too dark. But my final morning, I was determined to see the famed Circle Bridge. A quick walk from my hotel, the pedestrian bridge is whimsical, modern and looks like a ship’s sails. It is also across from the wonderous Copenhagen library. Copenhagen is an enchanting mix of modern and classic architecture. It has clean, efficient public transportation and an appreciation of food, it’s natural setting and the delicate hold we have on it all.

Lori Theisen
Lori Theisen is a co-founder and managing editor of The Literary Cafe. A journalism major before she got swept up into the world of corporate marketing, she always wanted to indulge her passion of books, culture and food.
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